What is sebum and do we really need it?

Sebum is a complex mixture of lipids produced by the sebaceous glands, which are an important endocrine organ* located in the dermis of the skin. Sebum's main functions are believed to be protection against water loss that is important for naturally moisturizing the skin as well as antimicrobial protection. Now that we've discussed the important role of sebum, it's time to go over some important misconceptions and truths about sebum.

Sebum leads to oily skin.

It is important to emphasize that the presence of sebum in itself does not equal oily skin, but situations where oversized sebaceous glands produce excessive amounts of sebum can lead to oily skin. While there is no clear explanation why some users are more prone to overproduction of sebum than others, we would like to note some factors that are believed to increase the risk of developing oily skin.

According to researchers Endly and Miller (2017), men are more likely to produce more sebum due to higher testosterone levels in the body. But having more sebum production can actually be quite good. It protects the skin from drying out, and men who normally have oilier skin compared to women have less problems with dry skin and sensitivity.

The hormonal aspect of sebum production is an interesting phenomenon, where sebum production declines with age as hormone levels also decline. Several studies also report that sebum production levels can vary depending on different environments and seasons, e.g. it may be higher during the summer and spring seasons and in more humid environments. Diet is another important factor to consider. We would like to refer to the research that researcher Fulton and his team developed, where 5 male volunteers were given two chocolate bars daily for a period of one month. Although the researchers did not conclude that there was a significant correlation between fat and sebum production, at the end of the experiment, the accumulated sebum increase was observed in 3 out of 5 volunteers, indicating that food can affect the production processes of the sebaceous glands. Furthermore, clinical studies also suggest that certain product classes such as milk and dairy products, saturated fats and hyperglycemic carbohydrates influence the development of acne, and therefore a diet rich in vegetables and fish products is recommended.

Sebum is responsible for the development of various skin conditions, such as acne.

Situations where the sebaceous glands are overstimulated and produce more sebum than the pores can handle can actually lead to various skin conditions, such as the previously mentioned oiliness of the skin, clogged pores and can ultimately lead to acne breakouts. If unwanted skin conditions develop, sebum overproduction can be tamed by using cosmetic products containing ingredients such as niacinamide, zinc or organic acids. A study developed by Andrade and the research team (2018) showed how the application of active ingredients affects acne-prone skin. During their study, a cosmetic formulation (consisting of niacinamide, pyridoxine tris-hexyldecanoate, and zinc PCA) was applied over a six-week period, twice a day, to 16 study participants' skin (forehead, moles, and chin regions) resulting in a 60% reduction in acne lesions ; despite this, the applied products did not reduce the barrier functions of the skin.

Estrogen and vitamin A have also shown positive results in controlling sebum production. Before we review sebum-friendly ingredients from Skinome's product line, we would like to emphasize that each person's skin condition is unique and that all treatment methods for skin conditions must therefore be discussed and carefully evaluated with clinicians before being adapted.

Skinome's products contain previously mentioned ingredients that support the skin in controlling sebum production, for example the organic lactobionic acid or so-called PHA acid is found in Skinome's Light emulsion and Night Active Control. Niacinamide which is a form of vitamin B3 is also found in several of our products, for example Light emulsion, Mineral cleanser, Night Active, Night active Retinol, and it has been shown to be an effective ingredient to improve barrier functions, reduce wrinkles and sebum production, hyperpigmentation control and a general improvement for acne skin. Finally, Zinc Ascorbate (vitamin C) and Zinc PCA, which are known for their antimicrobial and antioxidant properties, are included in our products Night Active and Night Active Retinol as well as in Rich emulsion.